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How to grow Apricot in New Zealand

Apricots are early-flowering stone fruit that ripen over summer, and a tree-ripened apricot is far better than anything in the shops. They do best where spring is dry and summer is warm, which is why Central Otago, Marlborough and Hawke's Bay are New Zealand's apricot country. Most varieties are self-fertile, so one tree is enough.

📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Apricot in New Zealand

At a glance

Plant
June to August, bare-root while dormant
First crop
About 3 years
Sun
Full sun, sheltered from spring frost
Soil
Well drained
Spacing
4 to 5 m between apricot trees
Height
Up to 5 or 6 m; no dwarfing rootstock
Pollination
Most are self-fertile
Harvest
Early to late summer, depending on variety

When to plant by region

RegionWhen to plantRegional note
NorthlandJune to AugustMarginal. Humid, wet springs bring brown rot and bacterial canker and winters may lack chill. Choose a low chill, disease hardy variety such as Royal Rosa, Garden Annie or Katy Cot.
AucklandJune to AugustMarginal. Humid, wet springs bring brown rot and bacterial canker and winters may lack chill. Choose a low chill, disease hardy variety such as Royal Rosa, Garden Annie or Katy Cot.
Waikato & Bay of PlentyJune to AugustMarginal. Wet springs bring brown rot and bacterial canker. Choose a low chill, disease hardy variety such as Royal Rosa, Garden Annie or Katy Cot, in a sunny, sheltered spot.
Central North IslandJune to August
Wellington & Lower North IslandJune to August
Nelson & MarlboroughJune to August
CanterburyJune to August
Otago & SouthlandJune to August
Central OtagoJune to August

Where to plant

Plant apricots in a sunny, sheltered spot with well-drained soil, protected from spring frosts. They flower early, so a frost at blossom time can take the crop, and wet weather at flowering brings brown rot and bacterial canker. Avoid low spots where cold air settles.

Apricots in New Zealand are grown on seedling rootstocks that give a tree of up to about 6 m; there is no dwarfing rootstock for stone fruit, so keep the tree smaller by pruning, or train it as a fan against a sunny wall or fence.

  • Central Otago, Nelson and Marlborough, and dry eastern districts such as Hawke's Bay: the best apricot climates, with dry springs and warm summers. Plant from June to August.
  • Canterbury, Otago and Southland: worth growing in a warm, sheltered spot. Choose varieties suited to cooler climates, such as Moorpark or Cluthagold.
  • Wellington and the central North Island: choose the warmest, most sheltered spot, protected from wind and late frosts.
  • Northland, Auckland, Waikato and Bay of Plenty: marginal, as humid, wet springs bring disease and winters may not give enough chill. Choose a low-chill, disease-hardy variety such as Royal Rosa, or Garden Annie or Katy Cot, which are suited to warmer areas.

Choosing a variety

Varieties sold by New Zealand nurseries include these. Most are self-fertile but crop more heavily and regularly with another apricot nearby.

  • Sundrop: a reliable New Zealand variety with large, sweet, juicy freestone fruit over a long season, for eating and preserving. Partly self-fertile and suited to many regions.
  • Moorpark: superbly flavoured, medium to large freestone fruit for eating, bottling or drying. Mid season and best in cooler climates. Self-fertile.
  • Cluthagold: a cross of Sundrop and Moorpark, very hardy and vigorous, with large orange fruit ripening about two weeks after Sundrop.
  • Trevatt: large, sweet, golden fruit, mid to late season, recommended for most areas. Self-fertile.
  • Royal Rosa: very early, disease hardy and low chill, recommended for home gardens throughout New Zealand. Self-fertile.
  • Garden Annie: early, semi-dwarf and self-fertile, well suited to warmer areas and smaller gardens.

How to plant

  1. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot and work organic matter through the soil.
  2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and to the same depth. For bare-root trees, spread the roots over a mound in the hole.
  3. Plant at the same depth as before, with the graft union above the soil, and backfill, firming gently.
  4. Water in well and mulch, keeping the mulch clear of the trunk.
  5. Stake young trees in windy sites.

Watering and feeding

Water well while the tree establishes, during long dry periods and while the fruit is developing. Mulch the root zone each spring.

Feed in early spring with a fertiliser for fruit trees, following the rate on the pack.

Pruning and care through the year

  • Prune only in summer, after fruiting, in dry weather. Pruning in winter or in wet weather lets in bacterial canker and silver leaf. Seal large cuts with pruning paste.
  • In areas with wet springs, follow a preventative spray programme: copper after leaf fall in autumn and at green tip in spring helps reduce brown rot, bacterial canker and leaf curl.
  • Net the tree as the fruit colours if birds are a problem.
  • When the fruitlets reach cherry size in late spring, thin pairs and clusters so the remaining fruit is about 5 to 8 cm apart. The fruit sizes up better and branches are less likely to break.

Harvesting

Apricots ripen from early to late summer, depending on variety. Pick when the fruit is fully coloured, smells fragrant and gives slightly to a gentle squeeze, lifting off the spur with an easy twist. They ripen quickly and all at once, so check the tree daily.

Ripe apricots keep only 3 to 5 days in the fridge. Bottle, dry, freeze or make jam from the surplus.

Growing in pots

Apricots are large trees with no dwarfing rootstock, so they are not ideal for pots. A semi-dwarf variety such as Garden Annie can be grown in a large pot, at least 50 cm wide, with good drainage, regular watering and summer pruning to keep it compact.

Using it

Eat apricots fresh off the tree, or bottle, dry, freeze or turn them into jam and chutney. Freestone varieties such as Moorpark and Sundrop are easiest to halve and stone for preserving.

Common questions

Do apricot trees need a pollinator?

Most apricots are self-fertile, so one tree will crop. They usually give heavier and more regular crops with another apricot variety nearby, and Sundrop is only partly self-fertile.

When should I prune an apricot tree?

Only in summer, after fruiting, in dry weather. Pruning in winter or wet weather lets bacterial canker and silver leaf into the cuts.

Can I grow apricots in Auckland?

It is marginal, as humid springs bring brown rot and canker and winters are mild. Choose a low-chill, disease-hardy variety such as Royal Rosa, or Garden Annie or Katy Cot, which suit warmer areas.

Why did my apricot flower but not fruit?

Usually a frost or a spell of wet weather at blossom time. Plant in a sheltered spot out of frost pockets, and use a preventative copper spray in wet districts.

Is there a dwarf apricot tree?

There is no dwarfing rootstock for stone fruit in New Zealand, but semi-dwarf varieties such as Garden Annie stay smaller, and any apricot can be kept compact with summer pruning or fan training on a wall.

When are apricots ripe?

When they are fully coloured, fragrant and give slightly to a gentle squeeze. Depending on variety, that is from early to late summer, and the whole crop ripens within a short window.

Sources we checked: Waimea Nurseries: How to grow apricots; Waimea Nurseries: Apricot varieties; Waimea Nurseries: Spray prevention guide for stonefruit trees; RHS: Apricots, grow your own.

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