How to grow Carrot in New Zealand

Carrots are one of the most rewarding root crops, with long, short, round, purple and yellow kinds to choose from. They are sown straight into loose, stone-free soil and do not like being transplanted. The two secrets are keeping the surface moist until the slow seed comes up, and thinning early so the roots have room.

📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Carrot in New Zealand

At a glance

Sow

August to April in the north; October to February in the south

Germination

7 to 21 days at 15 to 25°C

Harvest

60 to 80 days for most; up to 16 to 20 weeks for large types

Sun

Full sun

Soil

Deep, loose, stone free, well drained

Spacing

About 5 cm, rows 20 cm apart

Depth

About 6 mm

Pot

At least 30 cm deep, short varieties

When to sow by region

Region	When to sow	Regional note
Northland	August to April
Auckland	August to April
Waikato & Bay of Plenty	August to April
Central North Island	September to April	Skip August in the central North Island. Hard frosts and cold soil stall seedlings, so start in September, under a cloche if you can.
Wellington & Lower North Island	August to April
Nelson & Marlborough	August to April
Canterbury	September to February	Start spring sowings in Sep under a cloche or frost cloth, as frosts run to mid October. Make the last sowing in Feb so the crop is ready before winter growth stops.
Otago & Southland	October to February	Start spring sowings in Oct under a cloche or frost cloth, as frosts run to late October. Make the last sowing in Feb so the crop is ready before winter growth stops.
Central Otago	October to January	Start spring sowings in Oct under a cloche or frost cloth, as frosts run into early November. Make the last sowing in Jan so the crop is ready before winter growth stops.

Where to plant

Grow carrots in full sun in deep, loose, stone-free soil that drains well. Stones, clods and fresh manure make roots fork. On heavy clay or shallow soil, grow short or round varieties, or use a raised bed. A bed fed well for a previous crop suits carrots better than freshly manured ground.

Northland, Auckland, Waikato and Bay of Plenty, Wellington, and Nelson and Marlborough: sow from August to April. In Auckland and the warm north you can sow almost year round, easing off only in the coldest weeks.
Central North Island: skip August. Start in September, under a cloche if you can, and sow through to April.
Canterbury: start in September under a cloche or frost cloth, and make the last sowing in February.
Otago and Southland: sow from October to February, starting under a cloche or frost cloth.
Central Otago: sow from October to January, with early sowings under cover, as frosts run into early November.

Choosing a variety

Scarlet Nantes: a sweet, crisp, uniform cylindrical carrot to about 25 cm, good for juicing and storing in the ground in cold weather.
Resistafly: a Nantes type bred for strong resistance to carrot root fly.
Chantenay types: short, stubby roots that suit heavy soil, where long carrots fork.
Paris Market: a round, golf-ball heirloom only 2.5 to 4 cm across, for shallow or stony soil and pots.
Baby carrots such as Amsterdam types: fast, sweet and good in containers.

How to plant

Loosen the soil deeply and rake it to a fine, even surface, removing stones.
Sow seed thinly, about 6 mm deep, in rows 20 cm apart. Do not sow deeper, or the seedlings struggle to emerge.
Cover, firm down and water gently. Keep the surface moist every day until seedlings appear, which can take up to three weeks.
Thin seedlings to about 5 cm apart after about four weeks. The thinnings can be eaten.
Sow a new row every 4 to 5 weeks for a steady supply.

Watering and feeding

Keep the soil moist but not wet. Uneven watering makes roots split, and soggy soil makes them rot.

Carrots need little feeding in soil enriched for a previous crop. Avoid fresh manure and high-nitrogen fertilisers, which cause forked, hairy roots.

Pruning and care through the year

Keep rows weeded while seedlings are small, as they compete poorly.
Earth up or mulch around the tops of the roots, as exposed shoulders turn green in sunlight.
Where carrot rust fly is a problem, cover the rows with fine insect mesh and avoid bruising the foliage when thinning, as the smell attracts the fly.

Harvesting

Pull carrots when they are big enough to use, from about 60 to 80 days for most varieties. Loosen the soil with a fork first if it is firm. Baby carrots can be pulled earlier.

Twist off the tops and store carrots in the fridge, or leave them in the ground in cool weather and dig as needed.

Growing in pots

Choose baby or round varieties for containers at least 30 cm deep and 40 to 60 cm wide, in a sunny spot. Sow thinly, keep the mix moist and thin seedlings after about four weeks.

Using it

Eat carrots raw in salads and as snacks, or roast, steam, juice or add them to soups, stews and baking.

Companion planting

Strongly scented alliums and herbs are traditional carrot companions, thought to mask the carrot smell that draws carrot rust fly.

Good companions

Onion Its strong scent may help mask carrots from carrot rust fly.
Leek Another allium traditionally grown alongside carrots.
Chives A low allium for the row edges.
Lettuce A quick crop that shares the row and is picked before the carrots need the room.
Rosemary A strongly scented herb traditionally planted near carrots.
Sage Another aromatic herb traditionally grown near carrots.
Tomato Grows above the carrots without competing for the same root space.

Keep apart

Avoid planting these close to carrot.

Dill A carrot relative that can cross-pollinate and shares pests such as carrot rust fly.
Parsnip A close relative that shares carrot rust fly, so grow them apart.
Fennel A carrot family plant and a poor neighbour for most vegetables.

Pests and diseases

Carrot rust fly is the main pest, especially in warmer parts of New Zealand.

Pests to watch for

Carrot rust fly Rusty brown tunnels in the roots and stunted plants with reddish leaves. Active most of the year in warm areas; cover rows with fine mesh.
Aphids Stunted, deformed leaves with clusters of insects.
Slugs Seedlings chewed off as they emerge.
Snails Ragged holes and chew marks on the foliage.

Diseases to watch for

Root rot Cavity spot: small sunken, dark lesions on the roots, worse in wet soil. Rotate and avoid waterlogging.
Early blight Alternaria leaf blight: dark brown spots on older leaves that spread and kill the foliage in warm, humid weather.

All pests and diseases

Common questions

Why are my carrot seeds not coming up?

Carrot seed is slow, taking up to three weeks, and it fails if the surface dries out even once. Sow only about 6 mm deep, and keep the soil moist every day until the seedlings appear.

Why are my carrots forked or twisted?

Stones, clods, compacted soil or fresh manure make roots fork. Grow carrots in deep, loose, stone-free soil, or choose short or round varieties for heavy soil.

When can I sow carrots in New Zealand?

From August to April in most of the North Island and Nelson, and almost year round in Auckland and the north. In Canterbury sow September to February, and in Otago and Southland October to February.

How do I stop carrot rust fly?

Cover the rows with fine insect mesh, avoid bruising the leaves when thinning, and try a resistant variety such as Resistafly.

Can I transplant carrot seedlings?

No, carrots resent transplanting and the roots fork. Sow them directly where they are to grow.

Why are the tops of my carrots green?

The shoulders were exposed to sunlight. Cover them with soil or mulch as they grow.

Sources we checked: Yates NZ: How to grow carrots; Yates NZ: Common problems of carrots; Kings Seeds: Carrot Scarlet Nantes; Kings Seeds: Carrot Resistafly F1; Kings Seeds: Carrot Paris Market.