How to grow Cherry in New Zealand
Cherries are the Christmas fruit in New Zealand, and a backyard tree laden in December is hard to beat. They need cold winters and dry springs and summers, so they crop best in Central Otago, Canterbury, Marlborough and other cool, dry inland districts, and struggle in the warm, humid north. Choose a self-fertile variety if you have room for one tree, and plan on netting it against birds.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Cherry in New Zealand
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | Not suited | Northland winters lack the chill most cherries need, and humid weather brings brown rot, so cherries rarely crop here. |
| Auckland | June to August | Marginal. Most cherries lack winter chill here and humid weather brings brown rot. Try a self fertile variety that fruits in warmer areas, such as Lapins, in the coolest spot you have. |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | June to August | Possible in cooler inland spots. Choose a variety that fruits in warmer areas, such as Lapins, and net against birds. |
| Central North Island | June to August | |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | June to August | |
| Nelson & Marlborough | June to August | |
| Canterbury | June to August | |
| Otago & Southland | June to August | |
| Central Otago | June to August |
Where to plant
Plant cherries in a warm, sunny, dry and sheltered spot, protected from spring frosts, in moist but free-draining soil. Most sweet cherries need about 700 hours of winter chill to set fruit, and rain as the fruit ripens makes it split, so cool, dry districts suit them best.
Sweet cherry (Prunus avium) is listed by Weedbusters as a weed: birds spread the seed and wild seedlings form dense stands in bush and shrubland. Net your tree, which keeps birds off the crop and cuts down on seed spread, and pull out any seedlings that come up nearby.
- Central Otago, Canterbury, and Nelson and Marlborough: the best cherry regions. Plant bare-root trees from June to August.
- Otago and Southland, Wellington and the central North Island: worth growing in a warm, sheltered spot protected from spring frosts.
- Waikato and Bay of Plenty: possible in cooler inland spots. Lapins is one of the varieties that fruits in warmer areas.
- Northland and Auckland: cherries struggle in the warm, humid north, as winters lack chill and humid weather brings disease.
Choosing a variety
Rootstock decides tree size: Waimea Nurseries grows cherries on the dwarfing Edabriz (about 2 to 3 m), on Colt (5 to 6 m, good for difficult soil) and on an Edabriz interstem on Colt (about 3 to 4 m). Varieties sold in New Zealand include these.
- Stella: the first truly self-fertile sweet cherry, a prolific and regular bearer of large, sweet, dark red fruit, and a good pollinator for other varieties. Mid season; needs about 700 chill hours.
- Lapins: self-fertile, with large, firm, dark red fruit. Mid to late season, and fruits in warmer areas.
- Dawson: firm, sweet, black-skinned cherries ready for Christmas, around mid December. Needs a pollinator.
- Rainier: large, very sweet, yellow fruit with a red blush, early to mid season.
- Montmorency: a self-fertile sour cherry for pies and juice, ripening between Christmas and New Year.
How to plant
- Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and to the same depth. For bare-root trees, spread the roots over a mound in the hole.
- Plant at the same depth as before, with the graft union above the soil, and backfill, firming gently.
- Form a ring of soil around the tree to hold water and water in well.
- Mulch with bark, wood chips or pea straw, keeping it clear of the trunk.
- Stake young trees in windy sites.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply every 2 to 3 days while the tree establishes, and during long dry spells and while the fruit develops. Mulch heavily over the root area, about 10 cm deep, to hold moisture. Avoid heavy watering as fruit ripens, which can make it split.
Feed in early spring with a fertiliser for fruit trees, following the rate on the pack.
Pruning and care through the year
- Train young trees to an open vase or central leader shape. After that, little pruning is needed beyond removing dead, crossing and inward-growing branches. Cherries fruit on spurs on two-year-old and older wood.
- Prune only in dry weather in late summer or autumn, never in winter, as cherries are prone to bacterial canker and silver leaf, which enter through pruning cuts.
- Net the tree before the fruit colours. Without netting, birds usually take most of the crop.
Harvesting
Cherries ripen from November to February, mostly in December, depending on variety. Pick when fully coloured, firm and sweet, with the stalks attached, and taste first, as they do not sweeten after picking. The crop ripens over a short window.
Cherries keep up to a week in the fridge. Pit and freeze them for months.
Growing in pots
Dwarf cherries such as Compact Stella or the tart Griotella can be grown in a large pot at least 50 cm wide with quality potting mix. Water deeply every 2 to 3 days in warm weather, feed in spring and net the tree when fruiting.
Using it
Eat sweet cherries fresh, or bottle, freeze or bake them into pies, clafoutis and jams. Sour cherries such as Montmorency are best cooked.
Companion planting
Keep the root zone mulched and grass-free, with low herbs and flowers around the edge.
Good companions
- Garlic A traditional companion around the base of fruit trees.
- Chives A low, tidy edging that does not compete with the tree.
- Nasturtium A spreading ground cover that draws in insects.
- Marigold Brings beneficial insects to the orchard.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to cherry.
- Walnut Walnut trees are known to hold back many plants growing beneath or close to them.
Pests and diseases
Birds take the most cherries. Bacterial canker and silver leaf are the diseases that kill trees.
Pests to watch for
- Birds Ripe fruit pecked or stripped. Net the tree before it colours.
- Pear and cherry slug Slimy, dark, slug-like larvae skeletonising the upper surface of leaves in summer.
- Aphids Black aphids clustering on new shoots, which curl.
Diseases to watch for
- Bacterial canker Sunken, oozing patches on branches and trunk with amber gum, and dieback. Prune only in dry weather in late summer or autumn.
- Silver leaf Leaves with a silvery sheen, and branches that die back, with a dark stain in the wood. Cut out affected wood well below the stain.
- Brown rot Ripening fruit with spreading brown rot and grey-brown spore tufts, worst in wet weather. Remove rotten fruit.
- Shot hole Small round spots with brown edges whose centres fall out.
- Rust Yellow spots on leaves and orange pustules underneath in summer and autumn.
Common questions
Where do cherries grow best in New Zealand?
In areas with cold winters and dry springs and summers, such as Central Otago, Canterbury and Marlborough. They struggle in the warm, humid north.
Do I need two cherry trees?
Many cherries need a compatible partner, but Stella and Lapins are self-fertile, so one tree will crop. Stella is also a good pollinator for others.
When should I prune a cherry tree?
Only in dry weather in late summer or autumn, and keep pruning light once the shape is formed. Winter pruning lets in bacterial canker and silver leaf.
How do I stop birds eating my cherries?
Net the whole tree before the fruit starts to colour. A dwarf tree is much easier to net.
Why are my cherries splitting?
Rain or heavy watering as the fruit ripens makes cherries swell and split. Avoid heavy watering at ripening and choose a dry, sheltered spot.
Can I grow a cherry in a pot?
Yes, a dwarf variety such as Compact Stella or Griotella in a large pot at least 50 cm wide. Water often in warm weather.
Are cherry seedlings a weed?
Wild sweet cherry is listed by Weedbusters as a weed, as birds spread the seed into bush. Net your tree and pull out seedlings that come up.
Sources we checked: Yates NZ: How to grow cherries; Yates NZ: Common problems of cherries; Waimea Nurseries: Cherries; Weedbusters: Sweet cherry; RHS: Apricots, grow your own (stone fruit pruning).