How to grow Kale in New Zealand
Kale is a hardy, no-fuss brassica that crops right through autumn and winter, and a few plants give leaves for months if you pick from the bottom up. The flavour sweetens after a few cold nights. Like cabbage and broccoli it needs protecting from white butterfly caterpillars, especially when sown in late summer.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Kale in New Zealand
At a glance
When to sow by region
| Region | When to sow | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | August to October, January to March | |
| Auckland | August to October, January to March | |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | August to October, January to March | |
| Central North Island | August to October, January to March | |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | August to October, January to March | |
| Nelson & Marlborough | August to October, January to March | |
| Canterbury | August to October, January to March | |
| Otago & Southland | August to October, January to March | |
| Central Otago | September and October, January to March | Sow Sep to Oct and Jan to Mar. Cover early sowings with a cloche or frost cloth, as frosts run to early November. Get the last sowing in by Mar so it sizes up before winter growth stops. |
Where to plant
Grow kale in full sun or part shade in firm, fertile, well-drained soil dug through with compost or sheep pellets. Choose a sheltered spot, as tall plants can rock in strong wind.
Kale is a brassica, so rotate it: do not grow it where kale, cabbage, broccoli or other brassicas grew last year, because pests and diseases such as clubroot linger in the soil.
- Northland, Auckland, Waikato and Bay of Plenty: sow from January to March for autumn and winter picking, and again from August to October. Summer sowings face the worst of the white butterfly, so cover them.
- Central North Island, Wellington, Nelson and Marlborough, Canterbury, and Otago and Southland: sow from January to March and from August to October. Kale is among the hardiest winter greens for cold gardens.
- Central Otago: sow in September and October, and from January to March. Cover early sowings with a cloche or frost cloth, as frosts run to early November, and get the last sowing in by March.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Cavolo Nero (Tuscan) | Dark, blistered, strap-like leaves; the popular Italian kale for soups and braises |
| Red Russian | Tender, frilly grey-green leaves with purple stems, mild and good raw |
| Dwarf Blue Curled (Scotch) | Hardy, compact curly kale that stands through cold and wind |
Ornamental kales are grown for colour in flower beds and are not grown for eating.
How to plant
- Sow seed in trays or punnets about 1 cm deep and keep the mix moist, or sow direct into an enriched bed.
- Transplant seedlings when they are about 4 to 6 cm tall, ideally early in the morning or late in the day. Water them before and after planting.
- Space plants 30 to 50 cm apart; larger types such as Cavolo Nero need the wider spacing.
- Mulch with pea or lucerne straw and water in well.
- Cover the bed with insect mesh straight after planting to keep white butterfly off.
Watering and feeding
Water regularly, especially in dry autumn weather, to keep the leaves tender. Kale that dries out turns tough and bitter.
Feed every week or two with a liquid fertiliser for leafy vegetables, or side-dress with a vegetable fertiliser, to keep strong leafy growth coming through the season.
Pruning and care through the year
- Keep insect mesh on through the warmer months, when white butterfly and diamondback moth are active.
- Lay slug and snail bait or traps around young seedlings.
- Stake tall plants in windy gardens.
- In spring, plants run to flower; the young flower shoots are edible, like sprouting broccoli, before the plant is pulled out.
Harvesting
Start picking about seven to ten weeks after sowing, once the lower leaves are about hand-sized. Take the lower, outer leaves a few at a time and always leave the growing tip and a rosette of young leaves at the top so the plant keeps producing.
Regular picking through winter keeps the leaves young and tender. Kale keeps up to about five days in a sealed bag in the fridge, and blanches and freezes well.
Growing in pots
Kale grows well in a pot at least 30 cm wide, in a sunny or part-shade spot out of strong wind. Use vegetable or potting mix, water regularly and feed every week or two. Compact types such as Dwarf Blue Curled suit pots best.
Companion planting
Kale fits easily into a cool-season bed. Herbs and flowers that bring in beneficial insects help with aphids and caterpillars.
Good companions
- Beetroot A root crop that shares the bed and the same cool seasons.
- Onion Takes little space and grows alongside kale through winter.
- Celery Shares the same rich, moist soil and cool seasons.
- Dill Its flowers bring in hoverflies and other beneficial insects that eat aphids.
- Nasturtium Often grown as a trap crop, drawing aphids and white butterfly away from brassicas.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to kale.
- Strawberry Traditional companion lists keep strawberries apart from cabbage family crops.
- Tomato A summer crop with different needs; traditional lists keep it apart from brassicas.
Pests and diseases
Kale has the usual brassica pests. Insect mesh from planting prevents most caterpillar damage.
Pests to watch for
- White butterfly White butterflies over the bed, yellow eggs under leaves and velvety green caterpillars chewing ragged holes.
- Diamondback moth Small green caterpillars that wriggle and drop on a thread, and windows grazed in the leaves; worst in winter and spring.
- Aphids Grey, waxy clusters under leaves and in the growing tip.
Diseases to watch for
- Downy mildew Yellow patches on the upper leaf with grey or white fuzz underneath in cool, damp weather.
- Clubroot Plants wilt on warm days and the roots are swollen and distorted. Rotate brassicas and lime acid soil.
Common questions
When should I plant kale in New Zealand?
Sow from January to March for autumn and winter picking, and again from August to October for spring. In Central Otago start spring sowings in September under a cloche and make the last autumn sowing by March.
How do I pick kale so it keeps growing?
Pick the lower, outer leaves once they are hand-sized and leave the top rosette and growing tip. The plant keeps producing new leaves for months.
How do I stop caterpillars eating my kale?
Cover plants with insect mesh or fine netting from planting, sealing the edges. Without a cover, check under the leaves every few days and remove eggs and caterpillars.
Does frost hurt kale?
No. Kale is very hardy, and a few cold nights make the leaves sweeter.
Why is my kale flowering?
Kale naturally flowers in spring, or earlier if it is stressed by heat or dryness. The young flower shoots are edible; once it bolts fully, pull it out and resow.
Can I grow kale in a pot?
Yes. Use a pot at least 30 cm wide, keep it watered and fed, and choose a compact type such as Dwarf Blue Curled.
Sources we checked: Yates NZ: How to grow kale; Tui: Kale growing guide; Kings Seeds NZ: Kale Cavolo Nero.