How to grow Pear in New Zealand
Pears are long-lived, handsome trees with white spring blossom and buttery or crisp fruit from late summer into autumn. They are a little easier than apples, but most varieties need a second, compatible pear nearby to set a good crop, and European pears are picked mature but firm, then ripened indoors. In New Zealand they grow best in cool to temperate districts with good winter chill.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Pear in New Zealand
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | June to August | |
| Auckland | June to August | |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | June to August | |
| Central North Island | June to August | |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | June to August | |
| Nelson & Marlborough | June to August | |
| Canterbury | June to August | |
| Otago & Southland | June to August | |
| Central Otago | June to August |
Where to plant
Choose an open, sunny position sheltered from strong winds, with deep, fertile, well-drained soil. Check how big your variety and rootstock will grow, and allow enough room; pears also espalier well against a wall or fence.
Pears do best in cool to temperate districts, and different varieties need different amounts of winter chill. They flower earlier than apples, so their blossom is more exposed to frost and bad weather in spring. In warm districts choose low-chill varieties.
- Northland, Auckland, Waikato and Bay of Plenty: choose low-chill varieties, and watch for fire blight in warm, humid weather at blossom time.
- Central North Island, Wellington, Nelson and Marlborough, and Canterbury: well suited. Plant where frost drains away from the early blossom.
- Otago and Southland, and Central Otago: pears grow, but early blossom can be frosted; choose a sheltered spot and hardier varieties.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Williams Bon Chretien | Early, green, the classic eating and bottling pear |
| Beurre Bosc | Midseason brown pear, sweet and juicy, a heavy cropper; flavour develops after 3 to 4 weeks in the fridge. Needs high chill |
| Packham's Triumph | Midseason green pear with big fruit |
| Doyenne du Comice | Mid to late green pear, rich and melting, one of the best for flavour |
| Conference | Midseason green pear, self fertile, a good choice where there is room for only one tree |
| Taylor's Gold | Late russeted brown pear selected in New Zealand, sweet and juicy |
| Winter Nelis | Late green russet pear that keeps well |
| Seckel | Small gourmet pear with sweet, creamy flesh; partially self fertile and fire blight resistant |
Most pears need cross-pollination. Plant two compatible varieties that flower at the same time, or buy a double-grafted tree with two varieties on one trunk. Common pollinators include Beurre Bosc, Packham's Triumph, Williams, Winter Cole and Winter Nelis, and some nashi varieties.
How to plant
- Plant bare-root trees in winter while dormant.
- Dig compost into a sunny, sheltered, well-drained spot and dig a hole wide enough to spread the roots.
- Plant at the depth the tree grew in the nursery, with the graft union well above the soil.
- Stake young trees, water in well and mulch, keeping mulch off the trunk.
- Remove any fruit that sets in the first year so the tree establishes.
Watering and feeding
Water young trees regularly in dry spells, and keep established trees watered over the warm summer months for juicy fruit.
Feed in spring and summer with a balanced fruit tree fertiliser.
Pruning and care through the year
- Train young trees to a central leader. Each winter remove dead, diseased and damaged wood, crossing and rubbing branches, and branches growing back into the centre, and thin crowded areas.
- Pears fruit on spurs that last many years, so keep established spurs and thin crowded spur systems on older trees.
- Thin heavy crops after fruit set, leaving one or two fruit per cluster.
- Watch for fire blight in warm, humid weather at flowering: cut out blackened shoots well below the damage and disinfect tools between cuts.
Harvesting
European pears ripen from the inside out and go gritty or mushy if left to ripen on the tree. Pick them mature but still firm, when the fruit lifts and snaps off easily with a gentle upward twist, from late summer to autumn depending on variety.
Ripen picked pears at room temperature for a few days to a week, until the flesh near the stalk gives slightly. Late pears such as Beurre Bosc and Winter Nelis store for weeks in the fridge and ripen afterwards.
Growing in pots
Dwarf pears grow well in a large pot at least 50 cm wide in full sun. Use quality potting mix, water regularly in summer, feed in spring and summer, and choose a self-fertile variety or keep a compatible pear nearby.
Companion planting
Low flowering plants under pear trees bring in bees at blossom time, which helps pollination.
Good companions
- Nasturtium A low flowering groundcover that attracts bees.
- Chives A low perennial for the edge of the root zone that flowers for bees.
- Garlic A traditional companion under fruit trees.
- Comfrey Its leaves make a nutrient-rich mulch; keep it away from the trunk.
- Marigold Its flowers bring in hoverflies and other beneficial insects.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to pear.
- Walnut Walnut trees release a compound that can harm nearby plants and cast heavy shade.
Pests and diseases
Pears have fewer problems than apples, but codling moth, pear slug and fire blight can all damage crops in New Zealand.
Pests to watch for
- Codling moth Grubs tunnelling to the core, with brown frass at the entry hole; worst in cooler pear districts.
- Pear and cherry slug Slimy, dark green, slug-like larvae skeletonising the upper surface of leaves in summer.
- Leafroller caterpillars Leaves webbed together and shallow chewing scars on fruit.
- Birds Ripening fruit pecked on the tree.
Diseases to watch for
- Fire blight Flowers and shoot tips suddenly blacken as if scorched, with a shepherd's-crook bend at the tip, during warm, showery weather at blossom.
- Black spot Olive to black scabby spots on leaves and fruit, which may crack, in wet springs. Known in New Zealand as black spot or pear scab.
Common questions
Do I need two pear trees?
Most pears need a second, compatible variety flowering at the same time. Conference is self fertile and Seckel partially so, or you can buy a double-grafted tree with two varieties on one trunk.
When should I pick pears?
Pick European pears mature but firm, when they snap off easily with a gentle upward twist, then ripen them indoors. Left on the tree, they ripen from the inside and turn gritty or mushy.
How do I ripen pears?
Keep picked pears at room temperature for a few days to a week until the flesh near the stalk gives slightly. Varieties such as Beurre Bosc develop their best flavour after a few weeks in the fridge.
What is eating my pear leaves?
Small, slimy, dark larvae skeletonising the upper leaf surface are pear and cherry slug, the larvae of a sawfly. They are common in Canterbury and Otago in late summer.
How long until a pear tree fruits?
Usually three to five years after planting, sooner on dwarfing rootstocks.
Can I grow pears in Auckland?
Yes, with low-chill varieties. Watch for fire blight at blossom time in warm, humid weather.
Sources we checked: Tui: Pear growing guide; Yates NZ: How to grow pears; Waimea Nurseries: Pears; Waimea Nurseries: Pear Taylor's Gold (pollinators).