How to grow Swede in New Zealand
Swedes are hardy, cool-season roots with purple tops and sweet yellow flesh that improves after a touch of frost. They shine in cooler South Island gardens, where they are sown in summer for a winter crop. Sow them direct, as they dislike transplanting, keep them watered, and lift them through winter as needed.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Swede in New Zealand
At a glance
When to sow by region
| Region | When to sow | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | August to October, January to April | |
| Auckland | August to October, January to April | |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | August to October, January to April | |
| Central North Island | August to October, January to April | |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | August to October, January to April | |
| Nelson & Marlborough | August to October, January to April | |
| Canterbury | January to April | Sow Jan to Apr for the winter crop. Spring sown swedes tend to bolt. |
| Otago & Southland | August to October, January to April | |
| Central Otago | August to October, January to April |
Not to be confused with: Turnip, a close relative with smaller, faster, usually white-fleshed roots. Swedes are also called rutabaga or neeps.
Where to plant
Grow swedes in full sun in deep, well-drained soil. They prefer soil that is not too acid, so on acid soil add lime or dolomite before sowing. Rotate them with non-brassica crops, as they share clubroot and pests with cabbages.
- Northland, Auckland and the warm north: sow in early autumn and harvest before the heat returns.
- Waikato to Wellington and Nelson: sow from late summer into autumn.
- Canterbury: sow from January to April for the winter crop; spring-sown swedes tend to bolt.
- Otago and Southland: summer sowings give the best winter roots in the cool climate.
Choosing a variety
- Champion Purple Top is the classic variety, with purple and cream roots, rich yellow flesh and good hardiness.
- Swedes are grown both as a vegetable and as winter feed for stock on many New Zealand farms.
How to plant
- Sow seed thinly in rows directly where the swedes are to grow, cover lightly and water well.
- Thin seedlings in stages to about 25 cm apart.
- Cover young plants with fine insect mesh if white butterfly is about.
- Sow again every three to four weeks for a longer harvest.
Watering and feeding
Provide plenty of water, particularly in warm weather, so the roots do not dry out and turn woody or split. Mulch to hold moisture. Feed lightly; too much nitrogen gives leafy tops and small roots.
Pruning and care through the year
- Keep the rows weeded while the plants are small.
- Check for white butterfly caterpillars and aphids under the leaves.
- Leave roots in the ground over winter and lift them as needed; frost sweetens them.
Harvesting
Lift swedes from about 12 to 18 weeks after sowing, while the roots are tender, usually through late autumn and winter. In cold districts they can stay in the ground until needed. Store lifted roots in a cool, dark place, or twist off the tops and keep them in the fridge.
Growing in pots
Swedes are best in the ground, but they can be grown in a deep container of potting mix, sown in clumps and thinned to one plant each.
Companion planting
Swedes share pests and clubroot with other brassicas, so neighbours from other families help.
Good companions
- Peas A cool-season crop from a different family that fixes nitrogen.
- Lettuce A quick crop for the gaps while swedes grow.
- Onion Narrow and upright, and from a different family.
- Nasturtium Draws aphids and white butterflies away from the crop.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to swede.
- Potato A hungry crop that competes for the same space and food.
- Mustard Greens Another brassica that shares clubroot and pests.
- Strawberry Traditionally kept apart, and the low plants are shaded by swede tops.
Pests and diseases
Swedes are brassicas and share cabbage pests and clubroot.
Pests to watch for
- White butterfly Green caterpillars and ragged holes in the leaves from spring to autumn. Cover young plants with fine mesh.
- Aphids Clusters of grey, waxy cabbage aphids under the leaves, worst in dry weather.
- Flea beetle Tiny round holes peppering seedling leaves.
Diseases to watch for
- Clubroot Wilting plants with swollen, distorted roots. Lime acid soil and rotate.
- Powdery mildew A white coating on the leaves in dry autumn weather.
- Downy mildew Yellow patches on leaves with grey growth beneath in cool, damp weather.
Common questions
What is the difference between a swede and a turnip?
Swedes are larger and slower, with yellow flesh, purple tops and a sweeter flavour, and they store well. Turnips are quicker and smaller, usually white fleshed, and best eaten young.
When should I sow swedes?
In late summer to autumn for a winter crop. In Canterbury, sow from January to April, as spring-sown swedes tend to bolt. Choose your region at the top of the page.
Can I transplant swede seedlings?
It is best not to. Swedes dislike transplanting, so sow them where they are to grow and thin them out.
Why are my swedes woody or split?
Uneven watering or dry soil. Water regularly, especially in warm weather, and mulch to keep the soil evenly moist.
Does frost harm swedes?
No. Swedes are hardy, and a touch of frost sweetens them, which is why they do so well in cooler districts.
Sources we checked: Yates NZ: How to grow swede; Kings Seeds: Swede Champion Purple Top.