How to grow Blood Orange in New Zealand
Blood oranges are sweet oranges with crimson flesh and a distinctive raspberry note. The red comes from anthocyanin pigments that build up best when cool nights follow warm days, so the fruit colours better in sheltered gardens of the central and lower North Island and Nelson than in the humid far north. Grow one like a navel orange: sun, shelter, regular feeding and protection from frost.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Blood Oranges in New Zealand
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | September to November | |
| Auckland | September to November | |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | October and November | Plant after the frosts in a sunny, sheltered spot. Cooler inland nights help colour the flesh. |
| Central North Island | Not suited | Too frosty for blood oranges outdoors. |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | October and November | Plant in spring in a warm spot sheltered from the wind. |
| Nelson & Marlborough | October and November | Plant after the frosts. Cool nights and high sunshine give well coloured fruit. |
| Canterbury | November | Marginal. Plant in November against a warm wall and cover young trees through winter frosts. |
| Otago & Southland | Not suited | Too cold for blood oranges outdoors. |
| Central Otago | Not suited | Hard frosts rule out blood oranges outdoors. |
Not to be confused with: Cara Cara, a pink-fleshed navel orange whose colour comes from lycopene rather than the anthocyanin of blood oranges.
Where to plant
Plant in full sun in a sheltered, frost-free or frost-light spot with deep, well-drained soil. Most citrus will not tolerate temperatures below about minus 2°C, so in colder districts use frost cloth on young trees or grow a dwarf tree in a pot that can be moved under cover. Citrus are self-fertile, so one tree will crop.
- Northland and Auckland: plant from September to November. Trees grow well, but the fruit may colour less deeply in warm nights.
- Waikato and Bay of Plenty: plant in October or November after the frosts, in a sunny, sheltered spot. Cooler inland nights help colour the flesh.
- Wellington and the lower North Island: plant in October or November in a warm spot sheltered from the wind.
- Nelson and Marlborough: plant in October or November after the frosts. Cool nights and high sunshine give well-coloured fruit.
- Canterbury: marginal. Plant in November against a warm wall and cover young trees through winter frosts.
- Central North Island, Otago and Southland, and Central Otago: too frosty for blood oranges outdoors. Grow one in a pot that can come under cover in winter.
Choosing a variety
- Moro: the most colourful blood orange, with deep red flesh, a red-blushed rind and a strong, sweet flavour with a hint of raspberry.
- Tarocco and Sanguinello: the other two classic blood oranges, both Italian or Spanish in origin, usually less deeply coloured than Moro.
- Ask your local nursery which blood oranges they stock, as availability in New Zealand varies.
How to plant
- Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and to the same depth, in deep, well-drained soil.
- Tease out the roots and cut away any that circle the pot.
- Plant at the same depth it sat in the pot, keeping the graft union well above the soil.
- Form a ring of soil around the root zone to hold water, water in well and keep the soil moist for several weeks.
- Mulch with wood chips or pea straw, keeping it clear of the trunk.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply once or twice a week in dry weather for trees in the ground, and two or three times a week for trees in pots. Water well while the tree is young, in long dry spells and while fruit is developing.
Citrus are gross feeders. Feed with a citrus fertiliser in spring and again in late summer or autumn, following the rate on the pack, and keep the root zone mulched.
Pruning and care through the year
- Remove small fruit that forms in the first two years so the young tree puts its energy into growth.
- Prune lightly to shape and to let in sun and air. Rub off any shoots that grow from the rootstock below the graft.
- A copper spray after petal fall in November and December, repeated in May and June, helps prevent citrus scab (verrucosis) and other fungal problems. Follow the label.
- Check the trunk and branches for lemon tree borer holes and sawdust, and the leaves for scale and leaf miner.
Harvesting
Blood oranges ripen over winter and spring and hold well on the tree for weeks, though they can over-ripen if left too long. Snip the fruit off with secateurs rather than pulling it, which can tear the skin.
Once picked, they keep for 2 to 3 weeks in the fridge.
Growing in pots
Choose a dwarf tree and a pot at least 50 cm wide with good drainage and a quality potting mix. Keep it in full sun, water two or three times a week in warm weather, and feed regularly with a liquid or slow-release citrus food. In cold districts, move the pot under cover for winter.
Using it
Eat blood oranges fresh, or use the red juice in drinks, sorbets, salad dressings and desserts. Segments look striking in winter salads.
Companion planting
Keep the root zone mulched and free of grass and weeds, as citrus roots are shallow.
Good companions
- Comfrey Its leaves can be cut and laid as a mulch around the tree. Plant it where you want it, as it is hard to remove.
Pests and diseases
Citrus have few disease problems in New Zealand, but sap-sucking insects and borers need watching.
Pests to watch for
- Lemon tree borer Small holes in branches with sawdust-like frass, and branches that die back. Cut out affected wood.
- Scale Hard, scale-like insects on stems, pale leaves, poor growth and sooty mould.
- Leaf miner Silvery, winding trails in new leaves, which curl and distort.
- Guava moth Larvae tunnelling into fruit, mainly in the upper North Island.
- Thrips Silvering of leaves and fruit, with tiny black spots of excrement.
- Mealybug Small, white, mealy insects in sheltered spots, with black sooty mould.
Diseases to watch for
- Citrus scab Verrucosis: grey, scabby, wart-like growths on fruit, leaves and stems. Copper sprays after petal fall help prevent it.
- Melanose Small, raised, dark brown specks on leaves and fruit, often in a tear-stain pattern, from dead twigs in the canopy. Prune out dead wood.
Common questions
Why are my blood oranges not red inside?
The red pigment builds up best when cool nights follow warm days. In warm northern gardens the flesh may only be streaked with red. Fruit left longer on the tree usually colours more.
Can I grow a blood orange in Canterbury?
It is marginal. Plant in November against a warm, sunny wall, cover young trees on frosty nights, or grow a dwarf tree in a pot that can come under cover.
How long until a blood orange tree fruits?
A grafted tree usually starts within 2 to 3 years. Remove fruit in the first two years so the tree can grow.
Do I need two blood orange trees?
No. Citrus are self-fertile, so one tree will crop.
When are blood oranges ripe?
Over winter and spring. They hold on the tree for weeks, but check them, as they can over-ripen if left too long.
How do I protect my citrus from frost?
Plant in a sheltered spot, cover young trees with frost cloth on cold nights, or grow a dwarf tree in a pot you can move under cover. Most citrus are damaged below about minus 2°C.
Sources we checked: Yates NZ: How to grow oranges; Yates NZ: Common problems of oranges; Waimea Nurseries: How to grow citrus; Waimea Nurseries: Preventing pests and diseases; Wikipedia: Blood orange.