How to grow Boysenberry in New Zealand
Boysenberries are a blackberry hybrid with large, juicy, dark wine-purple fruit and a rich, tangy flavour, and New Zealand is one of the world's main growers. They are trained on wires like other brambles and crop in December and January. Plant dormant canes in winter, keep the soil moist and prune out old canes after harvest.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Boysenberry in New Zealand
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | June to August | |
| Auckland | June to August | |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | June to August | |
| Central North Island | June to August | |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | June to August | |
| Nelson & Marlborough | June to August | |
| Canterbury | June to August | |
| Otago & Southland | June to August | |
| Central Otago | June to August |
Not to be confused with: Blackberry, a parent of the boysenberry with black fruit, and loganberry, a raspberry and blackberry cross with paler purplish-red fruit.
Where to plant
Plant in full sun in well-drained soil that holds moisture and is high in organic matter. Shelter boysenberries from wind, including salty sea winds, and set up a trellis of two wires between posts, at about waist and shoulder height, before planting. Good airflow helps keep grey mould away from the fruit.
- All regions: boysenberries are hardy and grow New Zealand wide, and they do especially well in cooler districts with reliable moisture. Plant dormant canes from June to August.
- In hot, dry districts, give them a spot with some protection from hot afternoon sun and keep the soil moist while the fruit ripens.
Choosing a variety
- Mapua: a mostly spineless commercial selection with large berries of outstanding flavour.
- Tasman: a stable, mostly spineless selection that crops well, with medium to large berries and slightly earlier fruit.
- Starlight: a thornless, moderately vigorous boysenberry from Plant & Food Research, self-fertile and heavy cropping, ripening in December and January.
How to plant
- Install posts and two wires before planting.
- Dig in plenty of compost or organic matter.
- Plant dormant canes at least 1.5 m apart at the depth they were growing, and backfill.
- Tie the canes loosely to the wires.
- Water in well and mulch.
Watering and feeding
Keep the soil moist, especially while the fruit is ripening, and mulch every spring. Water at the base rather than over the canes to reduce grey mould.
Feed in spring with a fertiliser for berries, following the rate on the pack.
Pruning and care through the year
- Boysenberries fruit on canes that grew the previous season. Through spring and summer, tie the strong new canes to the wires and remove thin, weak and wandering ones.
- In late summer or early autumn, cut about 10 cm off the tips of the new canes to encourage fruiting side shoots.
- After harvest, cut the canes that have fruited off at ground level, in autumn, or in winter in cooler, drier areas.
- A copper and oil spray in winter helps keep the plants healthy.
- Net the canes before the fruit colours, as birds take ripe berries.
Harvesting
Pick when the berries are fully dark, glossy and pull away easily from the plant, as they do not ripen further once picked. Harvest every couple of days through December and January.
Boysenberries keep only 2 to 3 days in the fridge. Freeze them in a single layer, then bag them, or make jam.
Growing in pots
A thornless variety can be grown in a large pot at least 50 cm wide with a frame or obelisk to tie the canes to. Use a quality potting mix, water often in summer and feed in spring.
Using it
Eat boysenberries fresh, or use them in jam, jelly, pies, crumbles, sauces, juice and ice cream.
Companion planting
Flowers and herbs around a berry row bring in pollinating insects.
Good companions
- Marigold Brings beneficial insects to the row.
- Garlic A low allium that fits along the base of the trellis.
- Tansy A strong-smelling herb traditionally grown near berries.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to boysenberry.
Pests and diseases
Birds and grey mould take the most fruit.
Pests to watch for
- Birds Ripe berries pecked or taken. Net the canes as the fruit colours.
- Spider mite Pale, stippled leaves with fine webbing underneath in hot, dry weather.
- Caterpillars Chewed leaves and holes.
Diseases to watch for
Common questions
When do boysenberries fruit in New Zealand?
In December and January. Plant dormant canes in winter and you should get a crop the following summer.
How do I prune boysenberries?
After harvest, cut the canes that fruited off at ground level. Tie in the strong new canes, which carry next summer's fruit, remove weak ones, and tip the new canes by about 10 cm in late summer.
Are there thornless boysenberries?
Yes. Starlight is thornless, and Mapua and Tasman are mostly spineless selections.
Do boysenberries need a trellis?
Yes. Two wires between posts, at about waist and shoulder height, keep the canes off the ground and make picking and pruning easier.
Why are my boysenberries going mouldy?
That is grey mould, or botrytis, in wet weather. Pick ripe fruit every couple of days, remove mouldy berries and keep the canes thinned for airflow.
What is the difference between a boysenberry and a loganberry?
Both are bramble hybrids. Boysenberries have larger, dark wine-purple fruit, while loganberries are a raspberry and blackberry cross with purplish-red fruit.
Sources we checked: Incredible Edibles (Tharfield Nursery): Berryfruit; Waimea Nurseries: Boysenberries; Yates NZ: How to grow loganberries.