How to grow Culinary Rose in New Zealand
Culinary roses are fragrant roses grown for their edible petals and, in rugosa roses, large vitamin C-rich hips. The damask rose is the classic source of rose petals, rosewater and rose oil, while rugosa roses are tough, disease-resistant shrubs that tolerate salty wind, heat and cold. Only ever use petals and hips from plants that have not been sprayed.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Culinary Rose in New Zealand
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | June to September | |
| Auckland | June to September | |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | June to September | |
| Central North Island | June to September | |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | June to September | |
| Nelson & Marlborough | June to September | |
| Canterbury | June to September | |
| Otago & Southland | June to September | |
| Central Otago | June to September |
Where to plant
Plant culinary roses in full sun in well-drained soil improved with compost. Rugosa roses are especially tough: they tolerate poor soil, light shade, salt-laden wind and extremes of heat and cold, and make a good hedge. Avoid planting where roses grew before, as new roses often struggle in old rose soil, or replace the soil in the planting hole.
- All regions: roses grow throughout New Zealand. Plant bare-root roses from June to August while dormant, and potted roses through to spring.
Choosing a variety
- Damask roses (Rosa damascena types): intensely fragrant heritage roses, the traditional source of rose petals, rosewater and rose oil. Mostly summer flowering, about 1 to 1.5 m.
- Rugosa roses (Rosa rugosa and its hybrids): very hardy, disease-resistant shrubs with large, fragrant flowers that repeat through summer, followed by big ornamental hips full of vitamin C. Some, such as white-flowered forms, are noted for excellent hips.
- Any strongly scented, unsprayed rose can be used for petals; choose the most fragrant.
How to plant
- Soak bare-root roses in a bucket of water before planting; very dry roses can soak overnight.
- Dig a hole about 30 cm wide and deep, or larger, and make a small mound of soil in the centre.
- Trim any damaged roots, sit the rose on the mound and spread the roots evenly over it.
- Set the graft union about 5 cm above the final soil level, backfill and firm the soil.
- Water in well and mulch with wood chips or pea straw. Scatter fertiliser on the surface rather than in the hole.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply during the flowering season, especially in dry spells, rather than little and often. Mulch to hold moisture.
Feed in spring and again around Christmas with a rose fertiliser or compost, but use only organic or food-safe products on roses you will eat from.
Pruning and care through the year
- Prune in winter: remove dead and inward-growing stems, and for the first few years train the bush into an open vase shape for light and airflow.
- Picking flowers and removing spent blooms encourages more flowers. Leave the spent flowers on rugosa roses in late summer if you want hips.
- Grow culinary roses without chemical sprays. Rugosa roses are the most disease resistant and rarely need any.
Harvesting
Pick petals in the morning, when the flowers are freshly open and most fragrant, using only unsprayed blooms. Remove the pale, bitter base of each petal before use.
Pick rose hips in autumn when they are fully coloured and slightly soft. Dried petals keep for months in a sealed jar, and hips freeze well.
Growing in pots
Roses grow well in a pot at least 40 to 50 cm wide and deep, in full sun, with quality potting mix. Water deeply and regularly, and feed in spring and summer.
Using it
Scatter petals over salads and desserts, crystallise them with sugar, infuse them in syrups and drinks, or dry them for tea. Make rosehip syrup, jelly or tea from the hips, straining well to remove the irritating hairs around the seeds.
Companion planting
Aromatic herbs and alliums are traditional rose companions.
Good companions
Pests and diseases
Aphids and black spot are the commonest rose problems. Choose disease-resistant roses, as culinary roses should not be sprayed.
Pests to watch for
- Aphids Small black, brown or green insects clustered on growing tips, distorting new leaves and buds. Squash or hose them off.
- Scale White or grey raised spots on stems that become waxy crusts.
- Thrips Tiny brown insects that damage petals.
- Spider mite Mottled, discoloured leaves and fine webbing.
Diseases to watch for
- Black spot Yellow patches on leaves turning to black spots with yellowish rings, then leaf drop. Pick up fallen leaves and grow resistant types.
- Powdery mildew Powdery white film on leaves and buds.
- Rust Orange-brown spots on the underside of leaves.
Common questions
Which roses are best to eat?
The most fragrant roses have the best flavour. Damask roses are the classic choice for petals, and rugosa roses give large hips as well as fragrant petals. Use only roses that have never been sprayed.
Can I eat roses from the florist or garden centre?
No. Cut flowers and nursery plants are often treated with chemicals. Grow your own culinary roses without sprays.
How do I harvest rose hips?
Pick them in autumn when they are fully coloured and slightly soft. Leave spent flowers on the bush in late summer so hips can form.
When should I plant roses in New Zealand?
Bare-root roses are planted in winter, from June to August, while dormant. Potted roses can be planted at other times if kept well watered.
Why are my new roses struggling where old roses grew?
New roses often do poorly in soil where roses grew before. Plant in a new spot or replace the soil in the planting hole.
Are rugosa roses disease resistant?
Yes, they are among the toughest roses, rarely troubled by disease and tolerant of salt wind, heat and cold, which makes them ideal for growing without sprays.
Sources we checked: Yates NZ: How to grow roses; Yates NZ: Common problems of roses; Wairere Nursery: Damask roses; Wairere Nursery: Rugosa roses; Trinity Farm: Natural rose care.