How to grow Grapefruit Tree in New Zealand
The grapefruit most New Zealanders grow is the NZ grapefruit, a sweeter, hardier local type such as Golden Special, rather than the big tart grapefruit of hotter countries. It forms a large, handsome tree with golden fruit that ripens in late winter and spring and holds on the branches for months. It needs a warm, sunny, sheltered spot and is marginal south of Auckland and the Bay of Plenty.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Grapefruit in NZ: Where It Grows and When to Plant
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | September to November | |
| Auckland | September to November | |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | October and November | Marginal. Coastal Bay of Plenty only, planted after the frosts in a warm sheltered spot. |
| Central North Island | Not suited | Too cold for grapefruit to ripen. |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | October and November | Marginal. NZ grapefruit is the hardiest type; give it a warm wall out of the wind. |
| Nelson & Marlborough | October and November | Marginal. Choose NZ grapefruit and plant it against a warm, sunny wall. |
| Canterbury | Not suited | Summers are too short and frosts too hard for grapefruit to ripen. A Meyer lemon is the better bet. |
| Otago & Southland | Not suited | Too cold for grapefruit outdoors. |
| Central Otago | Not suited | Hard frosts rule out grapefruit outdoors. |
Where to plant
Grapefruit needs full sun, warmth and shelter from cold wind. Like most citrus it is frost tender and does best in a frost-free site; most citrus will not tolerate temperatures much below minus 2°C. Grapefruit also needs a long warm season for the fruit to sweeten, which is why it is mainly a tree for the warm north.
Drainage matters most. Citrus roots rot in waterlogged soil, so on heavy clay add gypsum and plant into a raised mound of free-draining soil. Keep grass and weeds clear of the root zone.
- Northland and Auckland: the best districts for grapefruit. Plant from September to November in a frost-free, sunny spot.
- Waikato and Bay of Plenty: marginal. Coastal Bay of Plenty only, planted in October or November after the frosts in a warm, sheltered spot.
- Wellington and Nelson and Marlborough: marginal. Choose an NZ grapefruit such as Golden Special, the hardiest type, and plant against a warm, sunny wall out of the wind in October or November.
- Central North Island, Canterbury, Otago and Southland, and Central Otago: too cold for grapefruit to ripen outdoors. A Meyer lemon is a better bet.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Golden Special | A New Zealand selection and the usual home garden grapefruit. Juicy, sweet and tangy with few seeds, a heavy bearer that forms a large tree and is hardier than true grapefruit |
| Wheeny | An older grapefruit listed by Tui among popular NZ choices |
| Rio Red (dwarf) | A red-fleshed, sweeter grapefruit, sold on dwarfing rootstock for pots |
All citrus are self fertile, so one tree will crop. Trees on standard trifoliata rootstock are the hardiest. Flying Dragon rootstock keeps a tree to about 2 m and crops younger, but is less cold tolerant, so use it only in warm spots or pots.
How to plant
- Plant in spring once frosts are over, in a sunny, sheltered spot.
- Water the tree well in its pot first. Dig in compost or sheep pellets, then dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and no deeper.
- Tease out and trim any circling roots, then plant at the same depth as in the pot, with the graft union well above the soil.
- Backfill, firm gently, form a ring of soil around the root zone to hold water, and water in well. Stake the tree so the roots are not disturbed by wind.
- Mulch with woodchip or pea straw, keeping it clear of the trunk.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply once or twice a week while the tree establishes and through summer, more in hot, dry spells. Citrus need the most water over the warmer months, but never leave them sitting in soggy soil.
Feed with a citrus fertiliser in spring and summer, spread around the drip line and watered in. Citrus need plenty of potassium and magnesium; yellowing between the veins of older leaves often means magnesium is short, which Epsom salts around the drip line corrects.
Pruning and care through the year
- Remove any fruit that sets in the first year so the tree puts its energy into growing.
- Prune only to shape, remove dead or diseased wood and open the canopy. Avoid pruning in September and October, when lemon tree borer is laying eggs in fresh cuts, or seal cuts with pruning paste.
- Rub off any shoots that come from below the graft union, about 15 cm above ground; they grow from the rootstock and look different.
- Keep the root zone weed free and mulched.
Harvesting
NZ grapefruit ripens from late winter into spring and holds well on the tree for months, so pick as you need it. Fruit is ready when it is firm, heavy for its size and the skin is smooth and fully coloured. Clip or twist it off carefully.
Picked fruit keeps two to three weeks in the fridge.
Growing in pots
Choose a dwarf grapefruit on Flying Dragon rootstock and a pot at least 50 cm wide, filled with a citrus and fruit potting mix. Water deeply two or three times a week in warm weather and feed regularly through spring and summer. In cooler districts put the pot on wheels so it can move to a sunnier, sheltered spot or under cover in winter.
Companion planting
Citrus do best with the root zone clear of competition. Low plants that feed the soil can sit near the edge of the canopy.
Good companions
- Comfrey Its leaves can be cut and laid under the tree as a mulch that feeds the soil. Keep it away from the trunk, as it is hard to remove once planted.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to grapefruit tree.
- Lawn and weeds Grass and weeds in the root zone compete with the shallow citrus roots for water and food.
Pests and diseases
Grapefruit shares the pests of other New Zealand citrus. Lemon tree borer and scale are the most common, and guava moth damages fruit in the upper North Island.
Pests to watch for
- Lemon tree borer Small holes in branches with sawdust-like frass, and twigs that die back or snap. Cut out affected branches.
- Guava moth Small holes in the rind and caterpillars tunnelling in the fruit, mainly in Northland and Auckland.
- Leaf miner Silvery, winding trails in new leaves, which curl and distort.
- Scale Small bumps on stems and leaves with sticky honeydew, black sooty mould and ants.
Diseases to watch for
- Melanose Small, raised, dark brown spots on leaves and fruit, spread from dead twigs in wet weather. Cut out dead wood.
Common questions
Can I grow grapefruit in Wellington or the South Island?
In Wellington and Nelson it is marginal: choose the hardy NZ grapefruit Golden Special and plant it against a warm, sunny wall out of the wind. In Canterbury, Otago and Southland summers are too short and frosts too hard for the fruit to ripen; a Meyer lemon is a better choice.
When is NZ grapefruit ripe?
NZ grapefruit ripens from late winter into spring. The fruit holds on the tree for months, so you can pick it as needed once it is firm, heavy and fully coloured.
Is NZ grapefruit a real grapefruit?
Not exactly. Golden Special and other NZ grapefruit are hybrids, sweeter and hardier than the true grapefruit grown in hot countries, which suits New Zealand conditions better.
Do I need two grapefruit trees?
No. All citrus are self fertile, so a single tree will fruit.
Why are my grapefruit leaves yellow?
Yellowing between the veins of older leaves often means a magnesium shortage, which Epsom salts around the drip line corrects. Even yellowing can mean the tree needs feeding, and yellowing with wet soil points to root problems from poor drainage.
Can I grow grapefruit in a pot?
Yes, if you choose a dwarf tree on Flying Dragon rootstock and a pot at least 50 cm wide. Water and feed more often than a tree in the ground.
Sources we checked: Yates NZ: How to grow grapefruit; Tui: Citrus growing guide; Waimea Nurseries: Grapefruit Golden Special.