How to grow Lemon Tree in New Zealand
A lemon tree by the back door is a Kiwi institution, and with sun, shelter, good drainage and regular feeding it will crop for decades. The Meyer lemon is the New Zealand standard: a small, cold-tolerant tree with thin-skinned, juicy, milder fruit that ripens over much of the year. True lemons such as Yen Ben, Lisbon and Eureka are sharper and better for the warm north.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow a Lemon Tree in NZ: Planting, Care and Harvest
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | September to November | |
| Auckland | September to November | |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | September to November | |
| Central North Island | November | Plant in November in a warm, sheltered spot. Meyer is the hardiest; cover young trees on frosty nights. |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | September to November | |
| Nelson & Marlborough | October and November | Plant Oct to Nov once the frosts finish, in a warm sheltered spot. Meyer copes best with inland frost pockets; cover young trees on cold nights. |
| Canterbury | November | Marginal. Plant a Meyer lemon in November in a warm, sheltered north facing spot, and cover young trees with frost cloth on frosty nights. |
| Otago & Southland | November | Marginal. Plant a Meyer lemon in November in the warmest, most sheltered north facing spot, and cover young trees with frost cloth through winter. |
| Central Otago | Not suited | Hard frosts rule out lemons outdoors. Keep a Meyer lemon in a pot moved under cover for winter. |
Where to plant
Lemons love a warm, sunny spot sheltered from frost and cold winds, such as a north-facing wall, a sunny deck or a courtyard. Most citrus will not tolerate temperatures much below minus 2°C, and young trees are the most easily damaged, so avoid frost hollows.
Drainage is essential. Citrus roots rot in waterlogged soil, so on heavy clay add gypsum and plant into a raised mound or bed of free-draining soil; if a hole filled with water takes more than about 30 minutes to drain, raise the bed. Lemons have shallow, fibrous roots that compete poorly, so keep grass and weeds clear of the root zone.
- Northland, Auckland, Waikato and Bay of Plenty, and Wellington: plant from September to November. All lemons grow well in frost-free spots; in the humid north choose a spot with good airflow to limit citrus scab.
- Central North Island: plant in November in a warm, sheltered spot. Meyer is the hardiest choice; cover young trees on frosty nights.
- Nelson and Marlborough: plant in October and November once frosts finish, in a warm, sheltered spot. Meyer copes best in inland frost pockets.
- Canterbury, Otago and Southland: marginal. Plant a Meyer lemon in November in the warmest, most sheltered north-facing spot, and cover young trees with frost cloth through winter.
- Central Otago: hard frosts rule out lemons outdoors. Grow a Meyer in a pot that moves under cover for winter.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Meyer | The standard New Zealand backyard lemon and the most cold tolerant. Thought to be a cross between a lemon and an orange or mandarin. Small tree, thin, smooth skin and juicy flesh with milder, floral flavour; fruits over much of the year, mainly April to December. Ideal in pots |
| Yen Ben | A Lisbon-type true lemon and the main commercial variety. Compact, with thin skin, few seeds, high juice and strong lemon flavour; good in pots |
| Lisbon | A large, prickly, vigorous true lemon with a heavy winter crop; hardier than Eureka to both cold and heat |
| Eureka | Almost thornless, with fruit almost year round in warm areas; high juice and acid, but not very cold tolerant |
| Lemonade | A sweet lemon hybrid, much less sour, eaten fresh or juiced; stays under about 2.5 m |
All citrus are self fertile, so one tree will fruit. Most trees are grafted onto trifoliata, the hardiest rootstock. Trees on Flying Dragon rootstock stay about 2 m and fruit younger but are less cold tolerant, so they suit pots and warm spots.
How to plant
- Plant in spring once the soil has warmed and frosts are over. In frost-free areas, autumn and winter planting also works.
- Water the tree well in its pot first. Dig compost or sheep pellets into the area.
- Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and no deeper. Tease out and trim any circling roots.
- Plant at the same depth as in the pot, with the graft union well above the soil. Backfill, firm gently and make a ring of soil around the root zone to hold water.
- Stake the tree, as citrus dislike root disturbance from wind rock, and water in well.
- Mulch with woodchip or pea straw, keeping it clear of the trunk to prevent collar rot.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply once or twice a week, more in hot, dry weather, and keep the soil moist for several weeks while a new tree establishes. Lemons need the most water over the warmer months and while fruit is forming, but never leave them sitting in soggy soil.
Feed regularly with a citrus fertiliser rich in potassium and magnesium. In frost-prone districts, feed in early spring and again in late summer or early autumn, so new growth hardens before winter frosts; in frost-free areas you can feed through spring, summer and autumn. Yellowing between the veins of older leaves often means magnesium is short, which Epsom salts around the drip line corrects.
Pruning and care through the year
- Remove any fruit that sets in the first year or two so the tree builds a strong frame.
- Prune lightly to shape, open the canopy and remove dead or diseased wood. Avoid pruning in September and October, when lemon tree borer adults are flying, or seal cuts with pruning paste.
- Cut out twigs that suddenly wilt and brown in early summer, a sign of young borer grubs, back to sound wood.
- Rub off shoots growing from below the graft union, about 15 cm above the ground.
- Keep the root zone weed free and mulched, and top up mulch in spring and late summer.
Harvesting
Pick lemons when they are full size, juicy and coloured for their variety; Meyer turns a deep yellow-orange. Clip or twist them off. Lemons do not ripen further once picked, but they hold well on the tree for weeks, so pick as you need them.
Lemons keep about a week on the bench and three to four weeks in the fridge. Juice freezes well in ice cube trays.
Growing in pots
Meyer and Yen Ben lemons, and trees on Flying Dragon rootstock, grow well in pots. Use a pot at least 50 cm wide with good drainage, filled with a citrus and fruit potting mix, in full sun. Water deeply two or three times a week in warm weather and feed regularly through spring and summer, as potted citrus use up nutrients faster. In cold districts, put the pot on wheels so it can move to a sheltered spot or under cover in winter.
Companion planting
Citrus do best with the root zone clear of competition. Low plants that feed the soil or bring in helpful insects are fine near the edge of the canopy.
Good companions
- Comfrey Its leaves can be cut and laid under the tree as a mulch that feeds the soil. Keep it away from the trunk, as it is hard to remove once planted.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to lemon tree.
- Lawn and weeds Grass and weeds in the root zone compete with the shallow citrus roots for water and food.
Pests and diseases
Lemon tree borer, citrus scab and sap-sucking insects are the main problems for New Zealand lemons. Guava moth damages fruit in the upper North Island.
Pests to watch for
- Lemon tree borer Twigs that suddenly wilt and brown in early summer, and small round holes with sawdust-like frass on thicker branches. Cut out affected wood.
- Leaf miner Silvery, winding trails in new leaves, which curl and distort; mostly cosmetic on established trees.
- Scale Small bumps on stems and leaves with sticky honeydew, black sooty mould and ants.
- Guava moth Small entry holes and caterpillars tunnelling in the fruit, mainly in Northland and Auckland.
Diseases to watch for
- Citrus scab Raised, corky, wart-like scabs on fruit, leaves and young twigs, worst in cool, wet springs in humid districts. Known in New Zealand as verrucosis; lemons are the worst affected.
- Melanose Small, raised, dark brown spots on leaves and fruit, spread from dead twigs in wet weather. Cut out dead wood.
- Root rot Yellowing leaves, dieback and gum oozing from cracked bark at the base of the trunk. Keep mulch off the trunk and avoid waterlogging.
Common questions
Which lemon tree is best for New Zealand?
Meyer is the most popular and the most cold tolerant, with juicy, milder fruit over much of the year, and it suits pots. In the warm north, true lemons such as Yen Ben, Lisbon and Eureka give sharper, more acidic fruit.
Can I grow a lemon in Christchurch or Dunedin?
A Meyer lemon is worth trying in the warmest, most sheltered north-facing spot, planted in November and covered with frost cloth while young. In Central Otago, grow it in a pot that can move under cover for winter.
Why are my lemon tree leaves yellow?
First check for sap-sucking insects such as scale, aphids, mealybug and whitefly. If there are none, yellowing between the veins of older leaves often means magnesium is short, which Epsom salts around the drip line fixes. Even yellowing can mean the tree needs feeding, and yellowing with wet soil points to root problems from poor drainage.
What are the warty scabs on my lemons?
That is citrus scab, also called verrucosis or lemon scab, a fungal disease worst in cool, wet springs in humid districts. The fruit is still usable. Improve airflow with light pruning and, in bad years, use a copper spray at flowering and early fruit set, following the label.
Why are branches on my lemon tree dying?
Twigs that suddenly wilt and brown in early summer, or branches with small round holes and sawdust, usually have lemon tree borer grubs inside. Cut out affected wood back to sound wood, and avoid pruning in September and October when the adults are flying.
How long does a lemon tree take to fruit?
A grafted tree usually starts fruiting within three to four years. Trees grown from seed can take up to seven years, and the fruit may not be like the parent.
When should I feed my lemon tree?
In frost-prone areas, in early spring and again in late summer or early autumn. In frost-free areas, feed through spring, summer and autumn. Use a citrus fertiliser and water it in.
Can I grow a lemon tree in a pot?
Yes. Choose a Meyer, a Yen Ben or a tree on dwarfing rootstock, and a pot at least 50 cm wide with citrus potting mix. Water two or three times a week in warm weather and feed regularly.
Sources we checked: Tui: Lemon growing guide; Yates NZ: How to grow lemons; Tui: Citrus growing guide; Incredible Edibles: Citrus (Lemon Meyer); Waimea Nurseries: Citrus rootstocks, pollination and climate (Grapefruit Golden Special page).