How to grow Mandarin in New Zealand
Mandarins are the easy-peel citrus that children love, and a single tree gives fruit through late autumn and winter. Satsuma types such as Miho, Okitsu and Silverhill are seedless and cope best with cooler New Zealand conditions, while late varieties such as Encore extend the season into spring. Like all citrus they need a sunny, sheltered spot with good drainage.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Mandarins in NZ: When to Plant and Harvest
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | September to November | |
| Auckland | September to November | |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | September to November | |
| Central North Island | November | Marginal. Satsuma types are the hardiest; plant in November against a warm wall. |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | September to November | |
| Nelson & Marlborough | October and November | Plant Oct to Nov once the frosts finish, in a warm sheltered spot. Satsuma types cope best with inland frosts; cover young trees on cold nights. |
| Canterbury | November | Marginal. Plant a Satsuma type in November in a warm, sheltered north facing spot, and cover young trees with frost cloth on frosty nights. |
| Otago & Southland | November | Marginal. Plant a Satsuma type in November in the warmest sheltered spot, and cover young trees with frost cloth through winter. |
| Central Otago | Not suited | Hard frosts rule out mandarins outdoors. |
Where to plant
Mandarins thrive in warm, humid summers. Plant them in a sunny, sheltered spot out of cold winds and frost, in free-draining soil enriched with compost and sheep pellets. On clay, add gypsum and plant into a raised mound so the roots never sit in water.
Satsuma mandarins are the most frost tolerant and the best choice for cooler districts, though young trees still need protection. Keep grass and weeds clear of the shallow root zone.
- Northland, Auckland, Waikato and Bay of Plenty, and Wellington: plant from September to November. Most varieties grow well in frost-free spots.
- Central North Island: marginal. Plant a Satsuma type in November against a warm wall.
- Nelson and Marlborough: plant in October and November once frosts finish, in a warm, sheltered spot. Satsuma types cope best with inland frosts; cover young trees on cold nights.
- Canterbury, Otago and Southland: marginal. Plant a Satsuma type in November in the warmest, sheltered north-facing spot and cover young trees with frost cloth in winter.
- Central Otago: hard frosts rule out mandarins outdoors.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Satsuma | Seedless, thin, easy-peel skin; frost tolerant, fruiting about May to July |
| Miho and Okitsu | Seedless, easy-peel Satsuma selections and reliable home-garden choices |
| Silverhill | An early Satsuma with thick, easy-peel skin and sweet, juicy segments; grows well in cooler areas |
| Kawano | Seedless and easy peel |
| Clementine | Valued for its flavour and compact growth |
| Encore | A late, vigorous variety with firm, well-flavoured, easy-peel fruit that hangs on the tree for a long time |
All citrus are self fertile, but seedless varieties such as Miho can form seeds if cross-pollinated by another citrus flowering nearby. Trees on trifoliata rootstock are the hardiest; Flying Dragon keeps them to about 2 m but is less cold tolerant.
How to plant
- Plant in spring once the soil has warmed, in a sunny, sheltered spot.
- Dig compost and sheep pellets into the area. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and no deeper.
- Tease out circling roots and plant no deeper than the tree sat in its pot, with the graft union above the soil.
- Backfill, firm gently, form a ring of soil to hold water and water in well. Stake the tree.
- Mulch with woodchip or pea straw, keeping it clear of the trunk.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply once or twice a week, more in hot, dry weather and while fruit is swelling. Never leave the roots in soggy soil.
Feed with a citrus fertiliser rich in potassium and magnesium. In frost-prone districts, feed in early spring and again in late summer or early autumn so new growth hardens before winter; in frost-free areas, feed through spring, summer and autumn.
Pruning and care through the year
- Remove fruit in the first year or two so the tree builds a strong frame.
- Mandarins can crop heavily one year and lightly the next. Thinning a very heavy crop when the fruit is small gives bigger fruit and a more even crop.
- Prune lightly to shape and remove dead wood, avoiding September and October when lemon tree borer is laying eggs.
- Rub off shoots that grow from below the graft union.
Harvesting
Satsuma types ripen from about April to August, depending on variety and district; late varieties such as Encore follow into spring. Taste one to check: colour can develop before the fruit is sweet. Clip the fruit with a short stalk rather than pulling, which can tear the skin.
Many Satsumas go puffy and dry if left too long, while Encore hangs well on the tree. Mandarins keep about a week on the bench and two to three weeks in the fridge.
Growing in pots
Choose a dwarf mandarin and a pot at least 50 cm wide filled with citrus and fruit potting mix, in full sun. Water and feed regularly through spring and summer. In cooler areas, move the pot to a sheltered spot or under cover for winter.
Companion planting
Keep the root zone clear of grass and competing plants. Low flowering plants at the edge of the canopy bring in beneficial insects.
Good companions
- Nasturtium Low and flowering at the edge of the canopy, it brings in beneficial insects.
- Marigold Its flowers attract hoverflies, whose larvae eat aphids.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to mandarin.
- Lawn and weeds Grass and weeds in the root zone compete with citrus roots for water and food.
Pests and diseases
Mandarins share the pests of other New Zealand citrus. Scale, leaf miner and lemon tree borer are the most common, and guava moth damages fruit in the upper North Island.
Pests to watch for
- Scale Small bumps on stems and leaves with sticky honeydew, black sooty mould and ants.
- Leaf miner Silvery, winding trails in new leaves, which curl and distort.
- Guava moth Small holes and caterpillars tunnelling in the fruit, mainly in Northland and Auckland.
- Lemon tree borer Twigs that wilt and brown in early summer, and small round holes with frass in branches.
Diseases to watch for
Common questions
Which mandarin is best for New Zealand?
Satsuma types such as Miho, Okitsu and Silverhill are the most reliable: seedless, easy to peel and the most frost tolerant. Encore extends the season with late fruit.
When are mandarins ripe?
Satsumas ripen from about April to August depending on variety and district, and late varieties such as Encore follow into spring. Taste one first, as colour can come before sweetness.
Why are my mandarins dry and puffy?
Many Satsumas go puffy and dry if left too long on the tree. Pick them once they are sweet. Dry spells while the fruit is filling also reduce juiciness.
Why does my mandarin crop heavily one year and hardly at all the next?
Mandarins are prone to alternate bearing. Thin a very heavy crop when the fruit is small and keep feeding and watering evenly to even out cropping.
Can I grow a mandarin in Christchurch?
It is marginal. Plant a Satsuma in November in the warmest, sheltered north-facing spot and cover it with frost cloth while young, or grow a dwarf tree in a pot that can move under cover.
Why does my seedless mandarin have seeds?
Seedless varieties such as Miho can set seeds if bees bring pollen from another citrus flowering nearby.
Sources we checked: Tui: Mandarin growing guide; Waimea Nurseries: Mandarin Satsuma; Waimea Nurseries: Mandarin Silverhill; Waimea Nurseries: Mandarin Encore; Yates NZ: How to grow mandarins.