How to grow Orange Tree in New Zealand
Home-grown oranges are sweeter and juicier than shop fruit because they can hang on the tree until fully ripe. Oranges grow best in the warm north and in sheltered, sunny spots further south, and with a mix of navel and Valencia types you can pick fruit from winter right through into summer. Like all citrus they need full sun, shelter and excellent drainage.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Oranges in New Zealand
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | September to November | |
| Auckland | September to November | |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | October and November | Plant once the frosts are over. Coastal Bay of Plenty suits oranges best; inland Waikato needs a warm sheltered spot. |
| Central North Island | Not suited | Winter frosts are too hard for oranges. A Meyer lemon or cumquat is the better citrus here. |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | October and November | Plant after the frosts in the warmest, most sheltered spot you have. Wind is a bigger problem than cold here. |
| Nelson & Marlborough | October and November | Plant once the frosts finish. Sunny coastal Nelson crops oranges well; inland frost pockets need shelter. |
| Canterbury | November | Marginal. Plant in November against a warm north facing wall and cover young trees on frosty nights. |
| Otago & Southland | Not suited | Too cold for oranges to grow or fruit outdoors. |
| Central Otago | Not suited | Hard frosts, which can come in any month, rule out oranges outdoors. |
Where to plant
Oranges grow best in the warmer parts of New Zealand, including the warmer, sheltered areas of the South Island. Choose a spot in full sun, sheltered from wind and free of heavy frosts. They need a long, warm season to sweeten the fruit.
Plant in fertile, well-drained soil dug through with compost and sheep pellets; on heavy clay add gypsum and plant into a raised mound. Keep grass and weeds out of the root zone.
- Northland and Auckland: the best districts. Plant from September to November in a sunny, frost-free spot.
- Waikato and Bay of Plenty: plant in October and November once frosts are over. Coastal Bay of Plenty suits oranges best; inland Waikato needs a warm, sheltered spot.
- Wellington: plant in October or November in the warmest, most sheltered spot. Wind is a bigger problem than cold here.
- Nelson and Marlborough: plant in October and November once frosts finish. Sunny coastal Nelson crops oranges well; inland frost pockets need shelter.
- Canterbury: marginal. Plant in November against a warm north-facing wall and cover young trees on frosty nights.
- Central North Island, Otago and Southland, and Central Otago: too cold for oranges outdoors. A Meyer lemon or cumquat is a better citrus choice.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Best's Seedless (navel) | A classic New Zealand navel selection, from an old mother tree in Blenheim, with masses of sweet, medium-sized, near-seedless fruit maturing through spring |
| Navelina (navel) | Deep orange, juicy, sweet fruit with a smooth rind |
| Powell Navel | A late-maturing navel with sweet, juicy fruit in late spring |
| Cara Cara (navel) | Pink-fleshed, low-acid, sweet and virtually seedless; needs plenty of sun, warmth and protection from hard frosts |
| Harwoods Late (Valencia) | A New Zealand selection of Valencia and the main commercial juicing orange, with high yields of juicy, thin-skinned fruit; a larger tree |
| Seville | A bitter orange for marmalade |
| Blood oranges | Red-fleshed oranges whose colour develops with cool nights |
All citrus are self fertile, so one tree fruits. Planting a navel and a Valencia spreads the harvest over many months. Dwarf trees on Flying Dragon rootstock suit pots and small gardens but are less cold tolerant.
How to plant
- Plant in spring once the soil has warmed; in frost-free areas autumn and winter planting also works.
- Water the tree well in its pot. Dig compost and sheep pellets into the area.
- Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and no deeper, tease out circling roots and plant at the same depth, with the graft union above the soil.
- Backfill, make a ring of soil around the root zone and water in well. Stake the tree.
- Mulch with woodchip or pea straw, keeping it clear of the trunk.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply once or twice a week, more in hot, dry weather, especially from flowering through fruit swell. Oranges need regular water over the warmer months but must never sit in soggy soil.
Feed with a citrus fertiliser rich in potassium and magnesium in spring and summer. In frost-prone areas, feed in early spring and late summer so new growth hardens before winter. Yellowing between the veins of older leaves usually means magnesium is short, which Epsom salts around the drip line corrects.
Pruning and care through the year
- Remove fruit that sets in the first year or two so the tree builds a strong frame.
- Prune lightly to shape and remove dead wood, avoiding September and October when lemon tree borer is laying eggs, or seal the cuts.
- Rub off shoots that grow from below the graft union.
- In the upper North Island, bag ripening fruit or pick up fallen fruit to reduce guava moth.
Harvesting
Navel oranges ripen from winter into spring, and Valencias from late spring into summer, so oranges can be picked from about June to February with the right varieties. Colour comes before sweetness, so taste one before picking the rest. Clip the fruit with a short stalk.
Oranges hold well on the tree for weeks, especially Valencias, so pick as you need them. Picked fruit keeps two to three weeks in the fridge.
Growing in pots
Oranges need a large, deep pot for their spreading roots, at least 50 cm wide, with good drainage and citrus and fruit potting mix. Choose a dwarf tree, water and feed regularly in the warm months, and move it to shelter in cold snaps.
Companion planting
Citrus do best with the root zone clear of competition. Low plants that feed the soil can sit near the edge of the canopy.
Good companions
- Comfrey Its leaves can be cut and laid under the tree as a mulch that feeds the soil. Keep it away from the trunk, as it is hard to remove once planted.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to orange tree.
- Lawn and weeds Grass and weeds in the root zone compete with the citrus roots for water and food.
Pests and diseases
Oranges share the usual New Zealand citrus pests. Lemon tree borer and scale are the most common, and guava moth damages fruit in the upper North Island.
Pests to watch for
- Lemon tree borer Twigs that wilt and brown in early summer, and small round holes with sawdust-like frass in branches.
- Guava moth Small entry holes and caterpillars tunnelling in the fruit, mainly in Northland and Auckland.
- Leaf miner Silvery, winding trails in new leaves, which curl and distort.
- Scale Small bumps on stems and leaves with sticky honeydew, sooty mould and ants.
Diseases to watch for
- Melanose Small, raised, dark brown spots on leaves and fruit, spread from dead twigs in wet weather.
- Citrus scab Raised, corky scabs on fruit and leaves in cool, wet springs.
Common questions
Can I grow oranges in the South Island?
In sunny, sheltered parts of Nelson and Marlborough, yes. In Canterbury it is marginal: plant against a warm north-facing wall and protect young trees from frost. Otago, Southland and Central Otago are too cold.
When are oranges ripe?
Navels ripen from winter into spring and Valencias from late spring into summer. Colour comes before sweetness, so taste one before picking more.
How long until an orange tree fruits?
A grafted tree usually starts cropping in three to four years. Remove any fruit in the first year or two so the tree establishes first.
Do I need two orange trees?
No. Citrus are self fertile. Growing a navel and a Valencia does, however, spread the harvest over many more months.
Which orange is best for juice?
Valencias such as Harwoods Late are the classic juicing oranges, with high yields of juicy, thin-skinned fruit.
Why are my oranges sour?
They may have been picked too early, or the tree lacks the warmth and sun needed to sweeten the fruit. Leave fruit longer on the tree and plant oranges in the warmest, sunniest spot.
Sources we checked: Tui: Orange growing guide; Waimea Nurseries: Orange Best's Seedless; Waimea Nurseries: Orange Harwoods Late; Waimea Nurseries: Orange Cara Cara; Tui: Citrus growing guide.