How to grow Strawberry in New Zealand
Strawberries are the berry every Kiwi garden should have, and the classic topping for a Christmas pavlova. Plant in winter in the north for a bigger crop, or in early spring in colder districts, into raised mounds of rich, free-draining soil in full sun. Mulch with straw, net against birds, and replace the plants every two or three years.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Strawberries in New Zealand: When to Plant Runners
At a glance
When to sow by region
| Region | When to sow | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | April to July | |
| Auckland | April to July | |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | April to July | |
| Central North Island | April to July | |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | April to July | |
| Nelson & Marlborough | April to July | |
| Canterbury | April and May, August and September | Plant in autumn or as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. Skip midwinter, when plants sit in cold wet ground. |
| Otago & Southland | April, September and October | Plant in April so crowns root in before winter, or wait for Sep to Oct. |
| Central Otago | September to November | Plant in spring. Autumn planted crowns heave out of frozen ground over winter. |
Where to plant
Choose a sunny, sheltered spot: without full sun the berries have little flavour. Strawberries like rich, warm, free-draining soil. Dig in compost and sheep pellets, then plant on mounds about 10 cm high, which improve drainage and air flow around the plants. On heavy or clay soil, mounds or raised beds are essential.
Do not plant where strawberries, tomatoes or potatoes grew recently, and start each new bed with clean plants rather than old, tired runners.
- Northland, Auckland, Waikato and the Bay of Plenty: plant from April to July. Plants set in the cool of winter establish well and give a bigger crop.
- Wellington and Nelson: plant in late autumn or winter while plants are in garden centres, and no later than early spring.
- Canterbury: plant in April or May, or in August and September as soon as the soil can be worked. Skip midwinter, when plants sit in cold, wet ground.
- Otago and Southland: plant in April so the crowns root in before winter, or wait until September and October.
- Central Otago: plant in spring, as autumn-planted crowns can be lifted out of the frozen ground over winter.
Choosing a variety
Strawberry varieties are grouped by how day length affects their flowering. Planting a mix spreads the harvest across the season.
- Short-day types such as Camarosa, Chandler, Pajaro and Ventana form flower buds in the short days of winter, giving a light early crop and then a heavy summer crop. Plant them in mid winter. Camarosa tolerates cooler, moist conditions and suits southern gardens.
- Day-neutral types such as Albion, San Andreas, Aromas and Monterey flower and fruit from spring through summer into early autumn, and can be planted later than short-day types.
- Camino Real is a heavy cropper of dark red, sweet berries that fruit later in the season.
How to plant
- Dig in compost and sheep pellets, then work a strawberry mix or fertiliser into the soil.
- Make mounds or ridges about 10 cm high. Running rows north to south gives even sun and ripening.
- Soak the plants in a seaweed tonic before planting to reduce transplant shock.
- Plant about 15 cm apart with the crown, where the leaves meet the roots, sitting just above the soil. A buried crown rots.
- Water in well, then mulch with strawberry straw or pea straw to keep the roots moist, the fruit clean and the weeds down.
Watering and feeding
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy, especially in dry spells and in containers. Overwatering gives watery, tasteless fruit and encourages grey mould in humid weather. Water at the base, not over the leaves and fruit.
If you planted into a strawberry mix, extra feeding is only needed from mid spring. Feed with a strawberry fertiliser in October and November, or every four weeks through spring and summer. Too much fertiliser gives leaves at the expense of berries.
Pruning and care through the year
- Net the plants once they start flowering, as birds take ripe berries.
- Keep the bed weed free, as strawberries dislike competition.
- Pinch off runners during the season so the plants put their energy into fruit, or let a few root into pots to make next season's plants.
- After fruiting, tidy old leaves and remove the runners you do not need.
- Replace plants every two to three years. Older plants crop less and are more prone to viruses.
Harvesting
Pick when the berries are fully red, glossy and fragrant, as they do not ripen further once picked. Pick in the cool of the morning, snipping or pinching through the stalk just above the green cap. During the peak of the season check every day, as berries ripen fast in warm weather, and the more you pick the more the plants produce.
Strawberries are best eaten fresh. To freeze them, hull and spread them on a tray to freeze individually, then bag them.
Growing in pots
Strawberries grow well in pots, troughs, hanging baskets and even a bag of strawberry mix laid flat with drainage holes punched underneath; five or six plants fit in one bag. Use a strawberry or potting mix, mulch the top, place in a warm, sunny spot, and water often, as containers dry out quickly. Refresh the mix each season.
New plants from runners
Strawberries send out runners with baby plants along them. Peg a few healthy ones into small pots of mix, cut them free once rooted, and plant them out for next season. Take runners only from vigorous, healthy plants, and in the north get them planted by August so they establish before fruiting.
Companion planting
Strawberries are low and spreading, so their best neighbours are small herbs and leafy crops that do not shade them.
Good companions
- Borage Its blue flowers bring in bees, which pollinate the strawberry flowers.
- Lettuce Fits around the edge of the bed and is picked before it competes.
- Spinach A cool-season leaf that shares the bed in winter and spring.
- Thyme A low, sun-loving herb for the bed edge that flowers for bees.
- Garlic Fits between rows over winter and is lifted by early summer.
- Onion Narrow and upright, so it takes little space between strawberry rows.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to strawberry.
- Brassicas Big, hungry plants that shade and crowd low strawberries.
- Fennel Is said to hold back the growth of many plants nearby. Grow it in its own corner.
Pests and diseases
Birds, slugs and snails take the most fruit. Grey mould is the main disease, worst in wet, humid weather.
Pests to watch for
- Birds Pecked or missing berries as soon as they colour. Net the bed.
- Slugs and snails (slugs and snails) Holes eaten into ripening fruit and slime trails, especially under mulch in damp weather.
- Aphids Small insects under young leaves; they also spread strawberry viruses.
Diseases to watch for
- Grey mould (Botrytis) Soft, rotting fruit covered in grey fuzz in wet weather. Space plants, water at the base and remove rotting fruit.
- Powdery mildew Leaves curl upwards and show a white, powdery coating, often with purple blotches.
- Crown rot Plants wilt and collapse, and the crown is brown inside. Plant on mounds and do not bury the crown.
Common questions
When should I plant strawberries in New Zealand?
In the north, from April to July; winter-planted strawberries establish well and give a bigger crop. Further south, plant in autumn or early spring, and in Central Otago plant in spring. Choose your region at the top of the page for the months.
How many strawberry plants do I need?
A good rule of thumb is five plants for each person in the household.
What is the difference between short-day and day-neutral strawberries?
Short-day types such as Camarosa and Chandler set their flower buds in the short days of winter, giving a light early crop and then a heavy summer crop. Day-neutral types such as Albion and San Andreas keep flowering and fruiting from spring into autumn.
Why are my strawberries small?
Usually poor soil, water stress or old plants past their best. Replace plants every two to three years, keep them evenly watered, and feed in spring.
Should I cut off strawberry runners?
During the fruiting season, yes, so the plant puts its energy into berries. Keep a few healthy runners to pot up as next season's plants.
How do I stop birds eating my strawberries?
Cover the bed with bird netting from flowering, held up on hoops so birds cannot peck through, and pegged down at the edges.
Can I grow strawberries in pots?
Yes. Pots, troughs, hanging baskets and planter bags all work. Use a strawberry or potting mix, give them full sun, water often and refresh the mix each season.
Sources we checked: Tui: Strawberry growing guide; Tui: Top strawberry varieties; Daltons: How to grow strawberries; Yates NZ: How to grow strawberries.
